Saint Laurent has doubled its sales in the last five years and, led by creator Anthony Vaccarello, has diversified its clientele, with out-of-season shows, particularly ignoring Parisian Fashion Week.
On the other hand, other brands come to the event with the energy of newcomers, such as the British Grace Wales Bonner, winner in 2016 of the LVMH award (the most important fashion and luxury consortium in the world) for young creators.
This creator, who combines the sober British cut with the Antillean colours, will physically walk the catwalk for the first time in Paris.
Dior Homme by the hand of Kim Jones, the American Rick Owens, Givenchy piloted by Matthew M. William and the British Paul Smith will once again offer their creations after a complex year 2022 for the world of fashion, with changes in the command of some houses that changed his artistic direction.
Louis Vuitton lost its artistic director for menswear, Virgil Abloh, in November 2021 and has yet to name a successor.
Even in underwear, the men’s market is growing: in the first ten months of 2022 it gained 3.3%, up to 400 million in January, compared to a growth of 2.5% in the case of women’s lingerie, which in all ways has a much larger turnover: 1.5 billion euros (about 1.65 billion dollars).
Givenchy has renounced haute couture but offers menswear since the arrival in 2020 of the American Matthew Williams.
Maison Margiela will also return to Fashion Week, under the artistic direction of the formerly ousted John Galiano.
Another creator attracting attention is Emily Bode, chosen designer of the year in 2022 in the United States, and known for her use of recycled materials.
Marine Serre, another woman who dresses men in a casual and street style, expresses herself in a similar vein, who last year starred in a spectacular fashion show at a sports stadium in Paris.