After the summer holidays we return “to school” one more year with the fashion catwalks. The presentations of the Spring-Summer 2023 collections in New York kicked off and, immediately afterwards, Madrid did the same. A Spanish fashion week which came with force after several editions marked by limitations due to the health emergency situation.
A total of 21 established designers make up the official calendar, including Duyos, Pedro del Hierro, Custo Barcelona and Roberto Diz. Aurelia Gil parades for the first time on the catwalk and Ulises Mérida wins the L’Oréal Paris award for the best collection after its return to the catwalk.
In addition, Allianz EGO repeats as a finishing touch with 10 proposals from emerging designers. And, for the first time, the OFF program has been integrated into a single day, the day before the start of the fashion shows.
Paloma Suarez
Together with the Californian make-up firm Urban Decay as responsible for the creation of the outfits makeup of the parade, the Canarian designer presents an ode to the creative spirit with specific references from the island of La Palma.
Among the garments, recycled jeans that are given a new life in a skirt version with hand-painted details, frivolity lace, jumpsuits and dresses completely lined with paillettes and textile experimentation bathed in sustainability, slow fashion.
In the makeup, which we classify as one of the best on the catwalk, the eyes stand out in striking tones such as purple, green or blue with eternal smokey and eyes marked with eyeliner blurred; while, the eyebrow is marked naturally.
Pilar Dalbat
The Andalusian firm is inspired by the restoration work on the Nasrid wall of Granada to present a collection with an abstract color palette that includes lime green, grey, sand, aquamarine and raw, and where contained volumes generate harmony.
Combine linen gazar fabrics with glitter, pleated and taffeta tulle. And don’t forget the brand’s icons like the tricolor layers that this time appear with transparencies and new textures. It also includes metallic and pleated as a bet, as well as methacrylate embroidery and glass beads on silky and neoprene tops. A creative sample full of strength.
Duyos
The celebration of the 25th anniversary of Duyos was one of the highlights of the catwalk with a choreographic parade directed by Mar Aguiló. Inspired by Estonia, Juan Duyos presents his most personal parade with a selection of outfits jewel. He illustrates jacquards, embroiders silks and tulles, and breathes unprecedented shades such as those of the midnight sun, thus evoking local tradition, but with a contemporary vision. All in a very romantic powdery color range.
The modernized traditional costumes, the overlapping of garments and the dresses full of details and textures stand out.
House Table
With a collection inspired by the transgender emperor Heliogabalus, Maison Mesa brings its usual “roll” to the catwalk. Geometric pieces that generate volumes and drapes according to their construction structure, of a classic/avant-garde cut and with references to the films Medea by Pasolini or Rome and Satyricon by Felini.
Evening dresses with embroidery or shiny applications. An exhibition full of contrasts between contemporary materials and other more innovative ones (including fabrics that change their color after continuous exposure to sunlight) in which the chromatic range went from white to yellow, passing through celestial blue and gold, green powdery and nuanced pinks compared to their more intense versions.
Ulysses Merida
His return to the catwalk brings a game of shapes and colors. Ulises recreates his well-known volumes, fabrics and patterns where organic jewelery mixes with metallic shoes with impossible heels and undulating straw hats, in which to play there is cotton poplin, natural linen in matte and metallic finishes, gazar from silk with a textured finish, silk and cotton knit, denim, hand-knitted crochet or leather with a nappa finish.
Alvaro Calafat
After sweeping the 080 in Barcelona, the revelation of fashion from Malaga presents a collection in which it vindicates the artisan. garments oversized, prints exclusive and worked pattern dyed colors such as beigebottle green, white, pink and lilac.
highlights a look of hair created by Rafael Bueno Peluqueros with groundbreaking waves. All very transgressive and avant-garde.
Theresa Helbig
Helbig’s most festive and hooligan collection falls in love. As she has accustomed us, the designer creates a unique sample with special garments, among which the biker printed bullfighters, seventies jumpsuits, cowboy boots and garments of crochet. Poppy red takes center stage accompanied by black, gold and white.
Hannibal Laguna
Hannibal Laguna presents a collection full of color in which ruffles and embroidered details take center stage. All very lady like and red carpet. A collection of perfect guest dresses with quality fabrics and clean tailoring work. Our favourite? A short model, very short with volume xl in lilac.
Custo Barcelona
The firm presents a collection very much in line with its innovative pattern design and a risky selection of materials. outfits for a self-confident woman, including short designs with openings in geometric shapes, reminiscences sporty and maxi dresses with long lines and fabrics of jacquard with macro geometries.
Roberto Diz
Finally, Roberto Diz closes Madrid fashion week in style with a collection inspired by neural connections. By removing shoulder pads from the equation and structured patterns, the designer presents an attractive display to say the least. We are excited about the transparencies presented in the form of garments with shiny mesh fabric (one of our obsessions of the season that Bad Gyal has already worn in its own way), the constructions in PVC, the maxi-volumes created from fringes and the prostheses as accessories in legs and face. The common thread reaches its strong point in the form of prints on red carpet dresses.
Photos | gtres