The news was made public on April 18 and, as usually happens with this type of recognition, the media frenzy around it was not long in coming. Notes, interviews, congratulatory posts and expressions of admiration from colleagues, friends and diners could be seen by all means. Less than two weeks later, on May 1, we were on a video call before service began at Rosetta, his flagship restaurant.
“Today will be an intense day of service,” he announced with a slow voice that conveyed more calm than concern. And it is that I suppose that after so much time in the world of the kitchens, the emotions temper to the fire. Thus, on a day that for most people was a break from work, she prepared to do what she knows best: delight and surprise her customers with dishes that, through their ingredients, pay homage to the wealth of history, culture and gastronomy of our country.
Life and Style (L&S): What has been the effect of the announcement of this recognition?
It has been very nice to understand and experience this process; however, I had not dimensioned how recognition of this nature could affect me, generating greater responsibility and focus. It has also been very beautiful the way it has permeated to the people I work with every day in Rosetta, as well as in the rest of the restaurants.
Something that has also been very beautiful is to see how many people have been moved by the news. As a woman, I notice that there are many young girls who see that it is possible, but also older ladies who feel that it is very much theirs. It has given me great joy to feel that this can leave us something positive as a society and community. Many people who had stopped coming are returning, there are also many people who are coming for the first time and then friends and diners who also feel it as their own, since they have allowed us to build what we have done.
(COURTESY ROSETTA)
L&S: What do you mean that it brings more responsibility?
When I mention the word responsibility, I mean understanding that if they gave us this recognition – and I say “us” because I am only the face, there are many people behind me – we have to be more consistent, further strengthen our ideals, values and that for which we have fought. Intentions have to become reality.
For example, I have had a conversation with my daughters to tell them that this award means that now I have to be more present. We had a trip planned for the summer that we are going to postpone, because now I need and want to be as close as possible to the people and more aware of everything. That is the responsibility of strengthening the intention and the work.
L&S: How do you stay excited to keep doing something you’re passionate about when the pressure and expectations increase?
I think that when pressure wins you can lose focus on passion. Above all, I hope I never lose the passion, the curiosity and the interest to continue testing and mixing and seeing what else we can do. I am a very curious person and everything I have done has always been for my own pleasure, it comes from a passion as a way of life and a strategic interest.
Many people have told me that now I will have to change, because what I do is very informal. But that’s what I like, who we are and what has put us where we are. By that I mean that if I do strange things like serving a pasta and a tamale on the same menu there is nothing wrong with it, I like it, I have no problem with that. I must continue to be who I am.
If I do strange things like serving a pasta and a tamale on the same menu, there is nothing wrong
Elena Reygadas